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Cusco, Peru - La Ultima Cena Con Cuy (2/2)
By Ruth
(1/2), (2/2).

The Catedral de Cuzco was the last stop on the tour. By this point, both of my kids were stretched out and immobilized on the back seats. The guide had abandoned all hopes of getting them out to see the Cathedral, so we quickly set off without them.

The Cathedral is as impressive as any I have seen in Spain, possibly more impressive because of the vast supply of silver and gold, which the Spaniards discovered while invading this land.
We wandered through the immense Cathedral, and I inspected the various altars. Each altar is more ornate than the previous. The high walls are crowded with large gold-framed canvases depicting various Old and New Testament scenes.
As I walked the width of the building, I saw a huge rendition of The Last Supper. This subject is one of my favorites. Jesus and his apostles are having a Seder. The Seder is a ritual meal celebrating the holiday of Passover. The word Seder means, 'order'.

In the course of the meal, the story of the Jewish exodus from Egypt is re-told. This meal includes ceremonial foods, prayers and songs.
Passover is also known as the feast of unleavened bread. As the story goes, the Jews were in such a hurry to get out of Egypt, the bread did not have time to rise. Traditionally, no bread or leavened products are eaten during this eight-day holiday (it's seven days in Israel).
The ceremonial meal is a long one with four glasses of wine punctuating the festivities. The Last Supper is a Seder. Jesus celebrated the holiday of Passover with his followers.
Through two thousand years of revisionist history, this small fact has routinely been overlooked.

As I drew nearer to the enormous canvas, I was quietly pleased to see that Jesus and his followers looked Jewish.
Rendering them as fair, Nordic characters is a pet peeve of mine.

My eyes then scanned the table set before the men, looking for the items I place on my own Seder table. My Seder plate has a roasted bone, egg, parsley, chopped apples and nuts, and horseradish. On this Seder plate was an odd object. It looked like a baby or some sort of animal.
As I squinted and drew closer, the guide anticipated my question.

"In this depiction of the last supper painted by Marcos Zapata, Jesus and the apostles are eating cuy, which is roasted guinea pig, it is an Incan delicacy. Also, you see papaya on the table. We understand these fruits did not grow in Israel."

"Wow!" I said, "That's fantastic.
I'm Jewish and I was wondering what that is on the Seder plate." My guide smiled politely, oblivious to the significance of my remark. Jews don't eat guinea pig; it's not kosher. For that matter, neither were the hunks of bread I saw placed on the table.
Rather than my usual irritation however, I found myself quietly applauding the Incans who endured the Spanish invasion and embraced the new religion, but without relinquishing their existing culture. The surviving Incans agreed to worship this Spanish god, but they did so on their own terms, as Incans.

During the centuries of Spanish conquests, their victims were systematically stripped of their customs and social mores.
The survivors dutifully dressed, spoke, ate, worshipped and lived as Spaniards.
History chronicles the tendency of proselytizers to destroy native culture during the conversion process. The obvious irony is that the version of Jesus presented by the Spaniards was not very Jewish at all. In the relentless effort to convert the world and destroy the original culture, Jesus also became a victim. This is just one of many primitive examples of identity theft, repeated endlessly by various religious sects.

But, this huge canvas speaks to the tenacity of the Incans, and their refusal to accept this new faith at the expense of their own rich cultural traditions.
As a Jew with Spanish ancestors, I could only grin quietly at the significance of this.

As we turned to leave, I glanced at the very Jewish face of Zapata's depiction of Jesus. Maybe it was the altitude, but he appeared mildly amused as well.

Copyright © Ruth 2009
thisisUll.com Featured Writer Ruth
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Places to Visit - Rudd On The Road - Catching up with Steve Rudd as he hits America in style ... Part 1 By Steve Rudd
The flight from London to LA was a long haul to say the least, yet it was made more tolerable by the company. I'd barely got settled when the guy beside me introduced himself as Jim Becket, a film director and documentary producer who lived in a place called Ojai, a little north of Los Angeles. He'd just returned from working in Athens where he'd sold the rights of his latest documentary to Read more...

Places to Visit - Playing Chicken In Turkey Part 1 By Steve Rudd
It wasn't the best welcome to Turkey. It was the dead of night, we'd just crossed the border, yet there I was, beside a Mancunian called Liam, being frog marched back to the tiny hut that issued visas. Upon crossing the border, us English lads had been issued the correct visa, but the official had inexplicably neglected to stamp the visas with our entry date. Read more...

Places to Visit - Roaming Around Romania By Steve Rudd
I was worried. It was four a.m., I was on a train bound for Bucharest, and somebody was tugging at my bed sheets from below. Coming around from a bout of deep sleep, I urged my weary eyes to focus. They were having none of it though, refusing point blank to reveal the person before me. 'Is there a problem?' I asked, hoping that a response might bowl my way in English. Read more...

Places to Visit - Gibraltar and La Linea, Spain By Mo
Recently I went on a week long trip to Gibraltar and La LÍnea, Spain staying with my mum and dad in their La Linea flat. My twin sister and her boyfriend were also at the flat on holiday for a week and had rented a small car booked online for only 60 quid for the week. I think that included car insurance too so a pretty good deal. They all met me at Gibraltar airport and we walked across the border with Spain Read more...

Places to Visit - The London, Bath and Bristol Chronicles By Steve Rudd
I knew I should have taken the train. Being stuck behind a combine harvester is never fun in a car. In a coach, it's murder. The battalion of towering power-line supports that stoically marched across the dead level Lincolnshire landscape didn't help. From their indifferent vantage point, they simply taunted. 'Technology is overtaking everything,' said the woman in front,
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Places to Visit - Kate Langan's Travel Journal - Thailand
Tonight we ate at a Thai Taverna, there was a baby elephant going by so Becky took my photo. We are staying in Phuket also as we have found a really nice basic room that's really cheap. It's clean and got 4 stone walls - not like the wood hut! I loved the wood hut but was bitten to death by the mozzies. No mozzies here - yey! And I'm not a huge fan of the cockroaches!
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Places to Visit - The Three Peaks Of Yorkshire Challenge 10th June 2006 By Steve Rudd
'Good morning gentlemen - rise and shine!' As I slowly came to my senses I couldn't help but glance at my watch. I'd been warned the previous night that we would be woken up at 4:15am sharp, and barely a second later. Unfortunately, that really was the case, and as exhausted as I was, there was a mammoth 25 mile walk ahead... It's a shame that I'd only managed Read more...

Places to Visit - A Weekend in Amsterdam By Dave F
Amsterdam is a city of freedom which instantly appeals on a lot of levels. What's the point of a holiday if you don't have the freedom to go and do what you want, when you want? If, like me, you want to wander aimlessly from coffee shop to coffee shop getting as stoned as humanly possible whilst ogling half-naked women through dirty windows and snacking heavily along the way, Read more...

Places to Visit - Christmas in Hikkaduwa, Sri Lanka By Dave F
I hate Christmas for too many reasons to mention and the chance to get away from it all this year it was an opportunity too good to pass up. Knowing someone with a house in Sri Lanka which stands empty for 9 months every year definitely has its benefits. I'm travelling with a mate and his daughter who've been here several times before so I get some insight Read more...

Places to Visit - Skiing In Bulgaria - Part Two By Steve Rudd
Giant Christmas trees loomed as far as the eye could see below, as I marvelled at the extraordinary engineering it must take to make a gondola a reality. After the thirty-minute ride to the top we were immediately greeted by a stunning panorama of the surrounding countryside which was beautiful beyond words. So pristine and so serene. Well, serene if you can discount the Read more...

Places to Visit - Skiing In Bulgaria - Part One By Steve Rudd
I could have thought of worst places to be, seeing in the New Year, as the last second of 2005 ticked over into 2006. Happy New Year indeed. For the best part of the past ten years myself and my friends have contented ourselves with heading into the town centre of Driffield every December 31st for one of the few nights of the year when it genuinely hustles and bustles. To drink Read more...

Places to Visit - Walking The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path - Part One By Steve Rudd
Get out of the city and into the country, sooner rather than later. A great many people genuinely have no idea how scenically diverse and breathtaking some swathes of countryside are in the UK, and such a fact is a great shame, because while they might be spending all their spare time in dirty and cramped urban environments, there's often fresh air and inspirational Read more...

Places to Visit - Thailand By Rich Mills
Expressing the experience of being here in Thailand is difficult to put into words. The sensorial experience is so mind blowing that you begin to feel overloaded. However it is the smallest of things that grab your attention, and stick in the mind. We are waiting for a taxi to take us down to the ferry, so that we can go over to the small island of Koh Maak. This is where we will get the full Read more...

Places to Visit - Ostend Weekend By John Allbones
I needed a break. Well, you just do sometimes don't you? The constant day to day drudge of the nine to five erodes your spirit until a change of scene is all you crave. Nothing fancy, just a few days will do. Preferably abroad, it just seems more of a break when you're on foreign soil. I managed to grab a late deal on a long weekend in Ostend. So desperate was I to get away, Read more...

Places to Visit - Eight Feet and Two Weeks On Crete Part 2 by Steve Rudd
One of the best ways of exploring the huge island of Crete is by car: in your own time, at your own speed and in your own style. Without the stress and cost of embarking on guided tours. Head into any of Crete's major cities such as Hania, Rethymno or Iraklion and you'll be bombarded by rent-a-vehicle establishments, all of which are fiercely trying to Read more...

Places to Visit - Eight Feet and Two Weeks On Crete Part One by Steve Rudd
While I might be a massive fan of Michael Palin's epic travels, and while I do aspire to follow him in many of his footsteps, up until now I've only ever been abroad three times. The first time was in 2000, when I was lucky enough to accompany a work colleague for a month in Nepal. The second time was for a holiday with some friends, last year, to the gorgeous Read more...

Places to Visit - Greetings From Amsterdam Part One
By Steve Rudd
As the blazing red sunset slowly but surely cast Hull into shadow, the P&O ferry was ready, and so were the passengers. I'd never travelled by ferry across to the Netherlands, and thus was naturally overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the ferry and the wealth of entertainment on board, what with two cinemas, a kids play area, a restaurant and casino Read more...

Places to Visit - On The Pennine Way Part Two By Steve Rudd
After surviving the nightmare of Kinder Scout's mountainous bulk and getting back on track, the next 'hill' of worth en-route along the Pennine Way is called Bleaklow. Just like its predecessor, it could quite potentially be the death of you if you're not careful in negotiating the peaty wastes as you go up and over and onwards towards the tiny hamlet of Read more...

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Why on earth would anyone want to go walking on their week off work? That's the question that most people would routinely ask anybody who would do exactly that, as though walking - and long distance walking in particular - is something simply not to be indulged in. I always argue that there is very little more Read more...

Places to Visit - Down South By Steve Rudd
Brighton has always been one hell of a popular place, but until one freezing cold day in February of this year I had never before spent anytime whatsoever there in my twenty-four years in this forever-overwhelming world. I thought it was high time I paid the place a visit, and seeing as though I was down in London anyway - and a return National Express coach ticket down Read more...

Places to Visit - Up North By Steve Rudd
So, you look forward all week - at work - to your one or two days off... right? And what do you do on such days off? Housework, no doubt. Do you ever think you should do something more worthwhile with your sacred time off? Like travel, for instance. County Durham isn't that far a trip from East Yorkshire, and if Read more...

Places to Visit - To Hampstead Heath and Beyond ...
By Steve Rudd
So, you live in London and wish to escape the hustle and bustle of the inner city scene. Where can you turn to? Why, the plethora of beautiful parks of course - and there are few places nicer than Hampstead Heath, in North London, for some quality peace and quiet. Read more...

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So much for me confiding to people that I thought we were collectively out of the woods and that Spring was just around the corner. Clearly I spoke too soon and paid for such a misdemeanour yesterday (13th February 2005) when I ventured up onto the Read more...

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In the last two months Hull has welcomed a new addition to its ever growing tourist trade. Dinostar, which opened on Easter Sunday of this year, should hopefully be welcomed with open arms by families and budding historians alike and with it being a quick Read more...

Places to Visit - Our Samhain Visit to Avebury by Janie Spencer
Before we start on our journey, let me give you a bit of background on Avebury. It is a beautiful stone circle, so big that you can in fact fit a village inside it, as you can see from this overhead map! As well as being a tourist spot, it is both a home and a gathering Read more...

Places to Visit - Burton Constable Hall.
Burton Constable Hall has collected several ghosts and stories from its 450 year history, the most frequently seen ghost being that of Nurse Dowdall, a much loved nanny to the children of the household during the 19th century. Read more...

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